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The EZegg, breaking an egg with one hand

September 25, 2015 in Solution

This post was originally on www.instructables.com created by user

The EZegg

The EZegg

Maxim is fifteen years old and takes cooking classes in the Dominiek Savio Institute. This is not evident because Maxim has a spastic triparese, hereby he can only use one hand. Because of this problem, the cooking lessons are much more challenging for him. Breaking an egg is really difficult and often Maxim has a lot of eggshell in his cup with yolk. That is why we designed an egg break help for him. The whole process with the eggbreakhelp is based on how normally eggs are broken.

First you break it on the side of a pan or cup, then you pull the egg open with your both hands. The eggbreakhelp is designed so it takes over the function of the second hand. First the eggbreakhelp has to be attached to the floor or wall. It is designed that Maxim easily can attach the tool on every flat surface. By using a sucker and the foot we are able to create a strong structure where

Maxim is able to pull the egg apart above a pan or pot. We made it also possible to attach it to the wall because Maxim is now also able to place the eggbreakhelp higher so he can pull the egg apart above higher pots. When the eggbreakhelp is in place Maxim only has to crack the egg on the side of the pan or pot and pull the egg open with the eggbreakhelper, all the proceedings are done with one hand.

Step 1: Materials & tools

Materials & tools

Materials & tools

Materials and Tools

Project Suckers

What MATERIALS do we need to make the EZegg?

1. Polystyrene sheet
2. Perchlorethylene
3. Small bolt and nut
4. Suckers

the sucker must work as you can see in this small movie:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9zTmW5Ne0OQ we used a sucker from HAD (home and design), as you can see on the picture

What TOOLS do we need to make the EZegg?

1. Brush
2. Lasercutter

if you don’t have a lasercutter, use a small saw or a knife to cut the different parts

Step 2: Download the file

The Template

The Template

You can download the file here:

https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B_yogepncqNhR3E5M0RaeXJwNjg/edit

It’s a PDF file that you can use for lasercutting or as a template for the dimensions.

Step 3: Add your logo (optional)

If you want to add a logo or text on the EZegg, do it.
You can give the product your own touch.

(We used adobe illustrator for this)

We made one for Dominiek Savio, an institute for disabled people.

Step 4: (Laser)cut the parts

Laser Cutter

Laser Cutter

Cut Parts

Cut Parts

With a lasercutter

1. Load the file into the lasercutter
2. Place the polystyrene plate in the lasercutter
3. Start lasercutting

After a couple of minutes you should have all the parts, with the correct dimensions

If you don’t have a lasercutter:

1. Print the file
2. Mark the dimensions of the different parts on the polystyrene plate
3. Cut out the parts

Step 5: Connect all the parts

Connect the Parts

Connect the Parts

If you have al the parts, you can connect them together.

You connect the pieces together by using the perchlorethylene.

Liquor the sides that you have to connect.

Connect the sides and press them together.

Step 6: Attach the sucker

Attaching the Sucker

Attaching the Sucker

Sucker attached

Sucker attached

The last step is to attach the body to the sucker.

This is a simple bolt – nut connection

 

Step 7: Use it!

Finished

Finished

 

How to build your own PVC Walker

September 25, 2015 in Solution

 

This post was originally on www.instructables.com created by user gluckc

Learn how to make your own walker from PVC pipe and other parts available at any hardware store.

Adapted Outdoor Plant Watering Wand Holder

September 24, 2015 in Solution

This post was originally on www.instructables.com created by user

Plant Watering Wand Holder in action

Plant Watering Wand Holder in action

Plant Watering Wand Holder in action

Plant Watering Wand Holder

For people with significant disabilities outdoor gardening tasks can be very difficult. A traditional 36″ outdoor plant watering wand (the kind that attaches to a hose) was attached to a fishing pole holder with a universal clamp that can be attached to any wheelchair or other mobility device. A handle was added to enable those with limited motion to independently position the wand to water an outdoor garden and potted plants.

Step 1: Materials

Fabrication of wand holder:

  • Fishing pole holder. We used the Scotty Powerlock Rod Holder purchased from Amazon.com
  • 36″ plant watering wand
  • Part A: Cut one donut using 1/2″ thick plastic OD = 2″ ID = 1 – 1/4″ 2”
  • Part B: Cut one donut using 1/8″ plastic OD = 1 – 3/4” ID = 3/4″
  • Part C: Cut one donut using 1/2″ thick plastic OD = 1- 3/4” ID = 3/4″c
  • (7) #12 X 1/2” screws
  • Rubber grommet OD = 1 – 5/8″ ID = 3/4” Inside Diameter

Handle to control the direction:

  • 18 links of 1/2” Loc-line and one flat mount Loc-line www.modularhose.compart# 59896
  • 1/2” conduit clamp
  • (1) 1/4″ – 20 x 1 – 1/2″ bolt with clamping knob
  • (1) 1/4″ – 20 x 3/4″ bolt with lock nut

Clamp to mount to a wheelchair:

  • Manfrotto super clamp
  • (1) 1/4″ – 20 x 1-1/2″ flat head bolt
  • (4) #12 x 1/2″ screws
  • 1 piece 4 – 1/2″ x 2 – 1/2″ x 1/2″ plastic

Step 2: Preparing the spacers

Preparing the spacers

Preparing the spacers

Take Parts B and C and cut them as shown. Discard the smaller piece. These partial donuts will later be screwed into the rod holder to keep the watering wand in position.

Step 3: Attach the spacer to the fishing pole holder

Attach the spacer to the fishing pole holder

Attach the spacer to the fishing pole holder

Take the larger half of the modified Part C and screw it into the fishing pole holder about 4 3/4” back from the front using (2) of the screws. This will be one part that will secure the sprayer inside the rod holder

Step 4: Attach Part A to watering wand

Step 4: Attach Part A to watering wand

Step 4: Attach Part A to watering wand

Cut a slit in the rubber grommet. Take the cut rubber grommet and place it around the watering wand approximately 13” from the hose attachment side. Place Part A around the rubber grommet. It fit snuggly. This piece will stabilize the sprayer and the rubber grommet will stop the watering wand from sliding out of the rod holder.

Step 5: Mounting watering wand to the fishing rod holder

Mounting watering wand to the fishing rod holder

Mounting watering wand to the fishing rod holder

Place the watering wand into the fishing pole holder. The arm of the sprayer should snap into the half circle (modified part C from step 3). Part A around the grommet should fit just right inside the front of the fishing pole holder. Attach part B to part A using 2 screws as shown.

Secure part A through the walls of the pole holder using 3 screws.

Step 6: Building and attaching the handle

Step 6: Building and attaching the handle

Step 6: Building and attaching the handle

Attaching the bracket

Attaching the bracket

Bolt the flat mount Loc-line to the conduit clip using the 3/4” bolt with lock nut.

Attach the locline links to the flat mount. Attach the handle to the hose end of the watering wand using the 1-1/2” bolt with clamping knob.

Step 7: Building and attaching the mount

Building and attaching the mount

Building and attaching the mount

Building the mount_02

Building and attaching the mount

 

Take your piece of 4 – 1/2″ x 2 – 1/2″ x 1/2″ plastic. Round the edges and sand smooth.

Locate the 1/4″ threaded insert on the Manfrotto super clamp. Center the piece of plastic over the Manfrotto clamp. Drill a 1/4″ hole in the plastic to line up with the threaded insert in the clamp. Countersink the hold to receive the flat head bolt.

Insert the bolt through the plastic and attached to the clamp.

Attach the base of the rod holder to the plastic using the 4 #12 x 1/2″ screws.

Step 8: Thanks

logo

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Wild Wheelchair footrest pads and bumper

September 24, 2015 in Solution

This post was originally on www.instructables.com created by user

Footplate pads and bumbers

Footplate pads and bumbers

Materials Needed

Materials needed

Materials needed

Introduction

This is actually a double instructable on how to improve a typical wheelchair footrest by adding footpads and bumpers. The typical wheelchair footrest consist of either two rectangular pieces of metal or hard plastic to hold a person’s foot off the ground. They almost never have any sort of padding, and are strictly utilitarian. If you’ve ever had the experience of being picked up by someone to be sat into a wheelchair, the first thing one will realize is just how hard plastic or metal can be as one’s feet drop hard onto the footrest. Caregivers are usually careful to ensure one’s seat lands on the seat of the wheelchair, but they will just drop the feet once the person’s seat has landed. This can cause bruises on the feet, which with the compromised circulation in the feet of an individual with a disability can be quite serious. Slippers are usually a must, first thing in the morning as wheelchair footrest, especially metal ones, are very cold for bare feet, but they will often fall off one’s feet when being sat into a chair.

Another common problem with wheelchair footrest is that the corners of the footrest are often quite sharp. As modern power wheelchair’s are quite powerful, I’ve had the experience of actually tearing a large hole right through a dry-wall when one of the corners of my footrest hit the wall while I was attempting to make a turn. Feet are given little protection, and I’ve sprained and injured my feet as a result of hitting the walls with my feet as the feet extend beyond the footrest. In addition, for quite some time, we had a number of walls with large scratches resulting from the footrest clipping the walls in areas where the wheelchair has had to make sharp turns to get through the narrow halls of our house.

To solve these problems, I’ve added footpads to my footrest that both cushion my feet when I am placed in the chair and protect my feet from the cold. I have also added bumpers to the corners of the footrest that offer some protection to my feet as well as prevent scratches to walls and furniture.

 The first half of this instructable is the footpads, the second half is the bumpers.

For the footpads, you will need the following materials:

  • 1 roll of rubber shelf liner mat (available at most dollar stores in a variety of colors)
  • Hook and Loop or Velcro brand fasteners with and without sticky back
  • Scissors
  • Paper
  • Marker (permanent or sharpie brand)
  • Hot glue gun and glue
  • Optional Needle and thread

For the footrest bumpers you will need:

  • 2 wheels off of an old pair of rollerskates or skateboard (Can find very cheap at flea market or yard sale)
  • Spray paint (optional)
  • 2 bolts
  • 2 nuts for bolts
  • 4 washers
  • Drill gun

 

Step 1: Footpad design

Footplate pads and bumpers in use

Footplate pads and bumpers in use

This foot pad design is actually my third version after two failed attempts. My first attempt at making footpads for my wheelchair, I simply cut two flat pieces of rubber and attempted to use spray glue to affix the pads to the footrest. This worked well for about one week. Just as footrest get very cold overnight, in the sun, they can get extremely hot. My particular footrest (a brilliant design for sure) are made of black metal that conducts heat like a frying pan. So, after one day in the sun, the glue melted and the rubber mat would not stick to the footrest. Instead, dirt and dust stuck to the glue on the footrest making quite a mess. I had to remove the footpads and the glue using alcohol to get rid of the sticky residue.

My second footpad design was very similar to this current version. I used one layer of the rubber shelf liner, cut it to the size of my footrest, then used sticky back hook and loop (Velcro) to attach it to the footrest. This worked well for two weeks. The sticky glue on the hook and loop stuck to the footrest fine, but it pealed off the rubber shelf liner.

This final version I have been using now for several months. It is made with the idea that it will wear out eventually. It still uses hook and loop fasteners (velcro) to attach to the footrest so that it can be easily removed.

Step 2: Foot-pad Template

Creating the footplate template

Creating the footplate template

The first step is to determine what size and shape you want to make your foot-pad for the footrest of your wheelchair. The best way to do this is to place a sheet of paper onto the footrest and draw the shape that you want to make your foot-pad. Cut out the shape and sit it onto the footrest to make sure it fits onto the footrest of the chair and that it is large enough to accommodate your foot.

Step 3: foot-pad Tracing template

foot-pad tracing template

Tracing the foot-pad template

Once you have a template for your foot-pad, trace the template onto your rubber shelf liner. The rubber shelf liner is commonly available at most Dollar stores and other large retail stores. It is basically a porous thin sheet of rubber that comes in a variety of colors. Pick a color that matches your wheelchair for best appearance. My particular wheelchair is blue, so I picked a light blue shelf-liner.

Trace the paper template onto the rubber sheet using a permanent marker (like a Sharpie). You will want to trace this shape four times, twice for each footrest. Keep in mind, you will be making one for the right foot rest and the left. My particular foot-pad is rectangular, but if you make yours in a different shape, the right and left should mirror (be opposite) of one another. If you need to mirror your shape, trace your template twice on one side, then flip it over and trace the template two more time

Step 4: foot-pad Cut template from shelf-liner

Cut out the template from your shelf-liner using the marker lines to guide your cuts. After you cut out your foot pads, you may want to sit them on the footrest to make sure they fit the way you want them to. If they do not, make any trims as necessary making sure to make the same cuts for each of the pads you cut from the liner.

Step 5: foot-pad Gluing pads together

Gluing pads together

Gluing pads together

For my foot-pads, because the shelf liner is so thin, I decided to double it by gluing two pieces together. For each foot pad, take the two matching pads. You will want to put the sides that have the marker lines such that they are facing one another so that they will not be visible once glued. Before using the hot glue gun, place cardboard or something under your work area so that you do not get glue on your table surface.

The rubber shelf-liner is very porous, so you have to be extremely careful gluing the two pieces together. Also, the rubber of the liner itself tends to melt slightly from the heat of the glue gun. Very carefully put small drops of glue all around the outter edge of the two pads so they stick together as a single foot pad. This will give them much more cushioning then if used as a single layer. Watch your fingers as you stick the pieces together as some of the hot glue will seep through the pads. Be careful not to glue the pads to your work table.

Let the glue of the pads dry for a few minutes. Once the glue dries some, you can remove any excess glue.

Step 6:foot-pad Hook and Loop

Gluing on hook and loop

Gluing on hook and loop

Hook and loop in place

Hook and loop in place

he reason for using Hook and Loop fasteners to attach these foot-pads is that they will eventually wear out and need to be removed and replaced. The wear of putting your foot on the pads and spilling stuff on them will eventually require that they be replaced. Also, in my initial attempt at gluing the pads to the footrest, I discovered that ordinary spray glue will not hold the foot-pads on.

Hoop and Loop fasteners come in both sticky back and non-sticky back varieties. I recommend using sticky back Loop fasteners (the soft side) to stick onto the footrest and using the non-sticky back fasters to glue onto the rubber foot-pads. If you choose to use the sticky back fasters on the rubber foot-pads, it will work for a week or two, and then come un-glued.

Take a strip of the non-sticky back hook fastener (the rough plastic side of Velcro) and cut it into several small strips, at least one for each corner of the foot-pad. Using your hot glue gun, carefully glue the fastener onto each of the corners of the rubber pad using a generous amount of glue. Once again, be very careful as the rubber mat is very porous and some glue will seep through and could burn your fingers. Press the faster firmly onto each of the corners and allow to dry. Be careful to not glue the pads to the table your working on. I frequently lifted the pad off of a cardboard work surface to make sure that the pad was not sticking to the cardboard. Allow to thoroughly dry.

Cut matching length strips of sticky-back loop fasters (the soft side of velcro). Line these up with the foot-pad’s hook fasteners by putting them together with the stick-back up. Peal off the protective cover of the sticky side, and carefully stick the foot-pads onto the footrest in their desired location.

Your foot-pads are done! Now your feet can land on these nicely cushioned pads that protect your feet not only from hard landings onto your wheelchair, but also protect your feet from the hot and cold of the footrest. Now I don’t need slippers on anymore when I am sitting in my chair, and don’t have to worry about my feet banging hard onto the metal footrest.

Step 7: BUMPERS

bumpers

Footplate Bumpers

The bumpers I designed for my footrest were actually an improvement on what the manufacture had done to my footrest. This chair came with tiny wheels on the corners of each of my footrest to protect walls and things from scratches do to the sharp edge of the footrest. Most footrest do not come with these. The wheels on this footrest were very tiny and did not offer much if any protection.

I decided to replace the tiny wheels in the corner of the footrest with much larger roller-skate wheels. These larger wheels, in addition to offering more protection to my feet and the walls also looked much nicer on the chair.

Step 8: Bumpers  Drill if necessary

As I was merely replacing existing wheels on my footrest, the footrest already had pre-drilled holes. If this is not the case with your wheelchair, you will need to drill two holes, one on the far right corner of the right footrest, and one on the far left corner of the left footrest. This hole should be close to the edge, but should not compromise the structural integrity of the footrest. Be sure to check with your wheelchair’s warranty before making any permanent modifications.

Step 9: Bumpers roller skates baby!

rollerblade wheels

Rollerblade Wheels

Remove the wheels from an old pair of roller skates or even an old skateboard. For my wheels, I purchased an old worn out pair of children’s roller-skates at a flea market. You only need two wheels, so I saved the extra wheels as spares. As the wheels of these old skates were a bit worn and an ugly grey, I used blue spray paint to color the wheels a pretty blue to match my chair. This is optional.

Step 10: Bumper -Bolt

The bolt you select for holding the wheels on is very important. You want a bolt with a fairly flat head as it will be sticking up some on the footrest, and you don’t want your foot slamming into a metal bolt every time you are seated into a wheelchair. The bolt needs to be long enough to go through the footrest and the skate wheel such that it can be secured with a nut. The bolt also needs to fit in the footrest drilled hole.

Step 11: Bumper attach

bumper attach

Attaching bumper wheel

Attach the bumper wheel to the footrest using the bolt. Put washers between the wheel and the footrest and between the wheel and the nut to allow it to spin freely.  Note:   You may on occasion have to tighten the bolt as it will eventually work loose if the bumpers spin frequently from bumping into things.  Normally, the wheels don’t move, so the bolt does not loosen.

Step 12: Bumper safety and use

Finished bumper wheels

Finished bumper wheels

This bumper is a bit like a spare parachute for a sky-diver. It is good to have, but you should hope never to use it. I’ve run into a few walls since attaching these wheels. What the bumper tends to do is if you hit a wall at an angle, most times it pushes the front end of the chair over without leaving marks on walls. It offers some protection to the feet in a direct hit of a wall, but not much. Primarily, these bumpers will protect what your hitting, and not you… but at the same time, they offer enough protection that I personally think they ought to be standard equipment on all wheelchairs.

 

Arm glider upper extremity support

September 24, 2015 in Solution

This post was originally on www.instructables.com created by user TCFDATDept

Arm Support

Arm Support

An arm glider was fabricated to assist individuals with limited upper extremity strength to perform writing and other motor tasks.

Step 1: Materials

  • 1 piece 4” diameter PVC pipe, 8” long
  • 1 piece 6-1/4″ x 8-1/4″ piece of 1/4” thick soft foam
  • 1 piece 4-1/2” X 8” x 3/4″ plywood, rounded corners and lightly sanded
  • (2) 1/4″ – 20 x 1″ flat head bolts and nuts
  • (6) 8 X 1/2” screws
  • (3) Flange mounted ball transfer bearings Ex: www.globalindustrial.com part# WGB536692
  • Glue or spray on adhesive

Step 2: Prepare PVC Pipe

Preparing the PVC Pipe

Preparing the PVC Pipe

Cut the 4” pvc pipe in half the long way to make two half circles. Round the sharp corners and sand all edges smooth.

Step 3: Attach the bearings to the wooden base

Attaching bearings to the base

Attaching bearings to the base

Attach the 3 ball transfer bearings to the wooden base using the six 3/4″ screws as shown.

Step 4: Attach the arm trough to the board, cover with foam

Attaching the PVC pipe to the base

Attaching the PVC pipe to the base

Attached

Attached

Centre the arm trough over the board from step 3 and locate a position to drill two 1/4″ holes that will continue through the board making sure you avoid hitting the roller bearings. Holes should be spaced approximately 4″ apart.

Counter sink the hole in the pvc pipe so the bolt lays flat in the arm trough.

Attach the foam to line the inner circle of the arm trough using glue or spray adhesive. Trim the foam around the edges to follow the shape of the arm trough.

Step 5: Thanks

Picture of Thanks

DIY dog lead system helping disabled people

September 24, 2015 in Solution

This is repost from www.instructables.com by user Korneel De Viaene

This DIY leash system allows trained dogs to put on and take off their leash without human help

This DIY leash system allows trained dogs to put on and take off their leash without human help

Introduction

Trained dogs are a great asset to people with a disability who need help in their daily life. Their dog allows them to live more independently. unfortunately they are not able to do all actions by themselves.

Sometimes there is still help needed for simple handling’s that occur every day. For example, the attaching and detaching of the dog to the wheelchair. Nowadays, there are hands needed to fix the leash to the dog and the wheelchair. This DIY leash system allows trained dogs to put on and take off their leash without human help.

The goal of this project is facilitate the life of people who have a minimal hand function, or even no hand function at all.

The video shows the different steps that the dog should follow to attach and detach himself using the leash system when going out with his owner. Of course the dogs needs to be trained to be able to perform these specific actions. In the video you can see Yuti and his trainer Elke that give a demonstration of the product.

Step 1: Tools and materials

Tools and Materials

Tools and Materials

Materials

  1. two bolts (M6), two nuts and two washings
  2. iron bar
  3. PVC tube (inner diameter 12 cm)
  4. golf ball
  5.  solid rope
  6. small, transparent PVC tube ( inner diameter 0,5 cm)
  7. double slip collar
  8. idem 6

Tools 

  1. hot air blower
  2. piece of wood
  3. iron saw
  4. drill
  5. glue
  6. file and sandpaper
  7. needle and thread
  8. brazing tool and tin

 

Step 2: Making V-box: deforming PVC tube

Making V-box: deforming PVC tube

Making V-box: deforming PVC tube

The form of the V-bow allows the dog to insert the ball into the box correctly.It doesn’t matter in from which direction he is approaching the box, the ball will always end up in the slot.

You start from a standard PVC tube with an inner diameter of 12 cm. Cut it to a length of 22 cm.Then take a hot air blower to heat the tube so it can easily be deformed. Then apply a wooden plank with dimensions 10cm x 30cm and insert it in the PVC tube. Apply pressure until the back of the tube is flattened.

The back of the should be flattened because this side will be next to the legs of the person in the wheelchair. Comfort and volume reduction are the main reasons for the deformation of the tube.

Step 3: Making V-box: Slope and slot

Marking out the V slot

Marking out the V slot

From several tests, we concluded that the suitable slope towards the slot should be 45°. The slot is necessary to attach the collar to the wheelchair so that the dog can independently put on and take off his leash and collar.

The width of the slot depends on the outer diameter of small, transparent tube that will be shown in step 6. Here we use a width of 1 cm. Make sure that the slot is deep enough: here it is 7,5 cm. Don’t forget to round the corners so that the rope containing the golf ball is guided smoothly into the slot. Finish it with a file and sandpaper in order to remove chips so that neither the dog or his owner can hurt himself.

Step 4: Making V-box: Fixing holes

Drilling the fix holes in the v-box

Drilling the fix holes in the v-box

In order to fix an iron bar to the V-box, some holes need to be drilled. We drilled 6 holes with the same diameter of the bolts (6mm). These holes are at the same position as the wholes that will be drilled in the iron bar. Here the horizontal distance between two holes is 6 cm. We made six holes so that the user can chose the most comfortable position of the box.

Step 5: Fixation bar

The fixing bar

The fixing bar

To create a fixation bar, you need an steel bar, an steel saw, a drill and brazing or welding tools along with tin.

First cut the steel bar in 3 pieces, each time at an angle of 45°.

  • the first part measures 12,5 cm
  • the second part measures 9 cm
  • the third part measures 20 cm

Each time the longest distance was measured.

Connect the parts using the brazer or welding technique. Be carefull: cool the bar with cold water before touching it with bare hands. Drill two holes in the piece that measures 12,5 cm in order to attach it to the V-box using the bolts, nuts and washers. The next step is inserting the bar into the tube under the armrest. Clamp the bar with a bolt shown on the last picture. Finish the bar with a file and sandpaper to achieve a clean result.

The tube under the armrest is a standard part that can easily be bought and attached to any electric wheelchair.This fixation method is just an suggestion. There exist several ways to connect this part to a wheelchair, depending on the type of wheelchair.

Step 6: Collar and detaching system

collar and detaching system

collar and detaching system

The ball that will be attached to the collar first needs a hole through which a rope can be put. The rope has a length of 15 cm, but this dimension will vary from dog to dog. Make a firm knot at the end of the rope to fix the rope to the ball. Then apply a small PVC tube to protect the rope en to prevent that it will twist and weave when the dog wants to grab it. It is important that the rope is connected to the collar firmly. We sewed the rope on the fabric collar.

Step 7: Making lead

Making Lead

Making Lead

To prevent the rope from fraying, we melted the ends of each rope before we started braiding.

Cut 3 ropes at a length of 160 cm to become a leash with a length of 70cm. Leashes that are normally used for assistant dogs are always more or less 70cm.

Fold the 3 ropes in two, around the ring on the collar. We start braiding around the ring, because this connection should be as light as possible to make the system function properly.

The technique that is applied is the classic braiding technique, which is very easy, only you shoud use two ropes at a time in stead of one. In this way a double braid is created.

The last step is to apply a little bit of glue at the end of the braid. Fold the braid and use one of the six ropes to twist around the little loop. This loop can be used to attach the leash to the wheelchair, for example by putting it over a hook.

Custom Assistive Spoon

September 24, 2015 in Solution

This is a repost from www.instructables.com originally by the user frenzy

A Spoon to aid people with low dexterity to hold a spoon

A Spoon to aid people with low dexterity to hold a spoon

Some hand disabilities need a special way to use certain tools. This project uses minimal supplies to change a spoon into a device anyone can use.

You can recreate these steps for any tool and any disability!

Step 1: Ingredients

The materials required to make the project

The materials required to make the project

For this mod you will need:
Shapelock or similar low heat plastic (polymorph)
Spoon or other tool to modify

Warning: There has been some concern about having this material in close contact with skin either while cool or hot. Here is the MSDS for a similar product Friendly Plastic. The MSDS does not suggest any ill results from contact with skin. It is true shapelock has not yet released an MSDS that is easy to find.  If someone can find one, please comment below.

Of course with all hot things use caution and if doing this for someone who has low heat sensitivities, use a glove or some insulator between the warm plastic and skin. The plastic doesn’t stick you your skin very well, so when it dries, it comes right off.

Step 2: Heat Shapelock

Heating the plastic to make it malleable

Heating the plastic to make it malleable

The first step is to heat the shapelock, polymorph etc. so you can form it.

Step 3: Shape the plastic

Moulding the plastic 2

Mould the warm plastic into the desire shape

Next while the plastic is still malleable, shape the plastic around your hand and put the spoon in. Once you are happy with the result, let it dry. Should take around 5 minutes to harden.

Step 4: Admire your work

 

Sit back and admire your work

Sit back and admire your work

The Final Product

The Final Product

Once the shape hardens, it’s ready for use!

Please post your own mods in the comments!

Assistive pan holder for one hand

September 24, 2015 in Solution

This is a repost from www.instructables.com originally by the user Nelson_Yepez

Assistive Pan Holder life hack to aid the disabled

Assistive Pan Holder life hack to aid the disabled

Introduction

Many people might have either a broken arm or even a missing one. This £4 assistive pan holder can help people who are disable and love to cook. Now idea came to me when my step mother broke her arm and had to be in a cast for a very long time. One of her favorite thing to do is cooking and it was really hard for her to do it due to she was not able to hold the pans when cooking and sometimes even spilled hot soup over herself. When went to the store we saw a similar PAN HOLDER for more than $20, so I decided to make an economic one.

Demonstration Video

Step 1: What you are going to need.

Materials needed to do the project

Materials needed to do the project

Materials:

  • 3 Suction cups
  • 30 inch 10 gauge solid wire (or similar thick solid wire)

Tools:

  • Drill
  • Small Knife (stanley, craft etc.)
  • Pliers or similar to bend wire

 

Step 2: Prepare the suction cup

A image of the suction cup  prepared ready for use

A image of the suction cup prepared ready for use

If the handle of the the suction cup is round like mine (please see picture)with the craft knife make one of the sides to flat, so you can drill through easily.Make a hole through the suction cups handle ,big enough for the wire to go through.

Step 3: Bend the wire

Bend the wire into shape, using the pliers if necessary

Bend the wire into shape, using the pliers if necessary

With the wire you are going to make a M shape, starting 3 inch bend, 6 inches bend, 6 inch bend, 6 inch bend, 6 inched bend, 3 inch bend.

Step 4: Add the Suction cups

The wire fully bent into shape with feet in place

The wire fully bent into shape with feet in place

Pass the wired through the holes of the suction cups previously drilled, the suction cups will be at the Middle bottom of the “M” shape and the other two on each end.

Now use and enjoy!!!!

Thanks

Nelson_Yepez

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